The spotlight shines more brightly than ever on the Windy City’s dining scene and the creativity found in the favorite restaurants on
THE CHICAGO COLLECTION’s list, which combines winners from a biannual poll of 200 elite city concierges with editors’ picks. This year, honors abound: The International Association of Culinary Professionals bestowed an award of excellence on Rick Bayless, chef/owner of Frontera Grill. Alinea garnered the number 10 spot on the S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants of 2009 list. Grant Achatz, the innovative force in Alinea’s kitchen (who was also named the best chef in the United States in 2008 by the James Beard Foundation), received a Beard award this year for his cookbook, Alinea, which chronicles the art and science of his multisensory, emotionally evocative cuisine. And the 2009 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant Design went to The Publican, where New Millennium minimalism merges with the sprawling Old World-style of a beer hall. But accolades aside, summertime in Chicago is epitomized by al fresco dining, whether the meal takes place on the lusciously landscaped enclosed patio at Piccolo Sogno or the bustling sidewalk café at Perennial. In this deliciously toasty season, sunshine, moonlight and gentle breezes heighten the sensual experience of the pleasures of the palate. —Nancy Maes

Note: Listings which appear in green denote a concierge selection.

Michigan Avenue/ Oak Street

Bin 36
(339 N. Dearborn, 312.755.9463, bin36.com. Contemporary American. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily) “Wine doesn’t have to be expensive to be good,” says Brian Duncan, wine director of Bin 36. This down-to-earth philosophy is directly reflected in the restaurant’s casually elegant décor, the approachable gourmet menu, the wide range of cheeses and, of course, the wine list, where one can find an array of balanced, varietally correct wines. Scoop up a budget-friendly glass, splurge on a big, bold bottle or mix it up with one of the many wine flights. With a room divided into the casual “Tavern” and the more refined “Cellar,” the space caters to those who want to drop in for a quick drink and those who prefer to savor the contemporary American menu in a more traditional dining atmosphere. Look for seasonal changes on both the menu and wine list, and savor fresh ingredients from local farms. Bin 36 often hosts reasonably priced wine classes as well as tasting events, which feature a wealth of wine knowledge (alongside a little nosh) in a nonintimidating environment. Inside scoop? Duncan produces his own line of Bin 36 wines, which are available at the restaurant, the Bin 36 market and at all Chicago-area Whole Foods.

Feast Restaurant + Bar
(25 E. Delaware, 312.337.4001, feastrestaurant.com. Contemporary American. Breakfast and lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.) What comes to mind when
you picture a feast? Is it a hamburger topped with melted cheese, red-wine onion marmalade and hand-cut curly fries? Is it Thanksgiving
dinner with turkey, cranberry sauce and piles of stuffing? Whatever comes to mind, the menu at this restaurant probably hosts your favorite interpretation. Chef/restaurateur Debbie Sharpe is behind the menu, which showcases Mexican, Indian and Mediterranean influences. Dinner brings a mix of Gold Coast-only selections and familiar favorites from its flagship location in Bucktown (1616 N. Damen, 773.772.7100), including barbecued salmon and grilled skirt steak with chimichurri. The casual dining room—which features a large bar area—is adorned in soothing shades of turquoise, green and taupe, while a wraparound sidewalk café adds plenty of al fresco seating during warmer months. And heads up, recessionistas: Feast offers half-price wines on Mondays and Tuesdays and a 2-course, $25 prix fixe (includes one glass of wine) on Wednesdays.

NoMI
(Park Hyatt Hotel, 800 N. Michigan, 312.239.4030, nomirestaurant.com. Contemporary French. Breakfast and dinner daily, lunch Mon.–Sat., brunch Sat.–Sun.) The first thing you’ll notice at this restaurant (located in the Park Hyatt hotel) is its beautiful view of Michigan Avenue, an enchanting sight, whether it’s sprinkled with snow or bursting with greenery. Fortunately, the food measures up to the eye candy. Executive chef Christophe David imbues his contemporary French cuisine with global flair, thanks to an international background that includes stops in Melbourne and Buenos Aires. A specialty is the turbot, which appears on the dinner menu in many iterations; applewood bacon, black trumpet mushrooms and other seasonal accompaniments make frequent partners. An unexpected surprise at this eatery is the substantial sushi menu, which includes both signature rolls and tempting sushi platters. The restaurant offers a top-quality lunch (try the catch of the day, served with Yukon gold potato puree and a lemony, caper-rich sauce vierge) and well-priced weekend brunch, perfect for Mag Mile shoppers on the go.

Pane Caldo
(72 E. Walton, 312.649.0055, pane-caldo.com. Contemporary Italian. Lunch and dinner daily) Though the dining room is small and intimate, there are big flavors to be found at this inviting Italian eatery. Undeniably romantic—with its warm amber walls, soft jazz and dimmed lighting—the restaurant still manages to keep the atmosphere comfortable and relaxed. Offering a menu that changes daily, the ever-rotating selection of dishes may include grilled fresh jumbo shrimp and calamari, chicken and duck dumplings with onion-grape marmalade or roasted quail stuffed with figs and gorgonzola cheese and finished with a white and red cherry-Porto sauce. The similarly shifting wine list is changed about once a week, so there are always new flavors to marry together. If you stick around for dessert, try the elegant ice cream bar, an updated version of the childhood favorite, or the decadent chocolate ravioli swimming temptingly in a delicious fudge sauce.

 

RL Restaurant
(115 E. Chicago, 312.475.1100, rlrestaurant.com. American. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sun.) Located next to the largest Polo store in the world (the flagship location on Michigan Avenue), Ralph Lauren’s dining establishment lives up to the elegance of his signature apparel. Dark wood, leather seating, black-and-white photos and a vintage library collection create a deliciously posh atmosphere that’s an ideal background for a menu inspired by American classics. The casual lunch crowd—particularly shoppers strolling down the Magnificent Mile—will appreciate a wide selection of sandwiches and salads such as a lobster club and a “Hollywood rendition” of the traditional Cobb salad. For dinner, RL signature dishes include dover sole in a Meyer lemon-butter sauce and classic steak Diane. The brunch menu also features traditional favorites; try an authentic quiche Lorraine or the decadent bananas Foster French toast.

Spiaggia
(980 N. Michigan, 312.280.2750, spiaggiarestaurant.com. Italian. Dinner daily) Renowned chef/partner Tony Mantuano, James Beard award winner in 2005 for Best Chef: Midwest, heads up the kitchen at this critically acclaimed restaurant, which is the only four-star Italian eatery in Chicago. Devoted to furthering Italian fine dining, Mantuano prepares top-quality, authentic and often rare ingredients with simple, elegant techniques, all the while focusing on the culture’s warm, welcoming and selfless hospitality. Delicate handcrafted pastas, made daily by an experienced pasta team, are served with crispy prosciutto, buffalo ricotta or brown butter and roasted garlic; wood-roasted fish, meat and poultry show up alongside the freshest seasonal ingredients. Spiaggia is also well-known for its first-class selection of Italian cheeses, which are housed in the Cava di Stagionatura, a climate-controlled cave that perfectly preserves cheeses’ aromas, textures and flavors. An acclaimed wine list, presided over by sommelier Steven Alexander, boasts more than 400 options, and the full bar offers an extensive selection of fine spirits including grappas, brandies and digestivi.

Table Fifty-Two
(52 W. Elm, 312.573.4000, tablefifty-two.com. American. Dinner Tues.–Sun.) You’ll feel right at home at this charming Southern dining destination, set up in the 19th-century carriage house of the Biggs Mansion. The historic building miraculously survived the Great Chicago Fire, and it sets the scene perfectly for chef Art Smith’s cozy retreat. Primarily known as Oprah Winfrey’s personal chef, Smith proves himself a Southern gentlemen and an outstanding chef—if you’ve never experienced true Southern cooking, you’re in for a treat. Meals begin with Parmesan cheese biscuits that melt in your mouth. Starters such as the fried green tomato Napoleon or the low-country shrimp keep mouths watering, followed
by tantalizing entrées like pan-seared catfish with cheese grits, bacon-braised collard greens, hush puppies and crispy okra. But if you dine on Sunday, you cannot pass up the supper special: Smith’s buttermilk fried chicken with garlic mashed Yukon gold potatoes. Southern hospitality has never tasted so great.

Tavern On Rush
(1031 N. Rush, 312.664.9600, tavernonrush.com. American. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.) Popular with both tourists and locals, this multilevel Gold Coast steakhouse is one part club, one part casual. The bustling open kitchen churns out tasty American classics for brunch, lunch and dinner. Award-winning steaks are the highlight of the dinner menu, which also includes several seafood, pork and poultry options as well as a selection of pizzas, pastas, sandwiches and salads. While the food can stand on its own, this hip spot is a top destination for post-work and weekend drinks, thanks in part to the sprawling bar (offering a tempting selection of supersized martinis) and, in warmer months, the extensive outdoor seating. An excellent spot for people-watching, Tavern on Rush offers a tantalizing taste of the neighborhood’s prolific nightlife.

The Gage
(24 S. Michigan, 312.372.4243,
thegagechicago.com. Irish. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sat.–Sun.) Galway natives, the Lawless family first made an authentically Irish splash with The Irish Oak in Wrigleyville, then with The Grafton in Lincoln Square. Now they’ve turned their attention to The Gage, a large, 300-seat pub across from Millennium Park. While the bar/restaurant still features plenty of Irish accents—wood décor, exposed brick, a well-stocked bar, correctly poured Guinness and images of Ireland on the walls—upscale touches such as modern flower arrangements and large, view-friendly windows match the upscale pub cuisine. Look for a menu packed with delicious, traditional fare that maintains the integrity of the dish listed alongside more modern, innovative cuisine. For every fish and chips, there’s a daily risotto, and for every bangers and mash, there’s a baked semolina with roasted tomato emulsion. Though large, the Gage still retains all the charm of a traditional Irish pub and is an ideal refuge from the bustle of Michigan Avenue.

River North

Ai Japanese Restaurant & Lounge
(358 W. Ontario, 312.335.9888, aichicago.us. Japanese. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily) Though the menu at this elegant sushi lounge—complete with bamboo, a delicate waterfall and a soothing Koi aquarium—exhibits a few contemporary influences, the food here primarily honors traditional Japanese cuisine. The restaurant’s signature sushi rice, made with one part brown rice and two parts white rice, lends its dishes fantastic texture—check out signature selections such as the Chef Hemmi spicy tuna maki, which combines spicy tako, avocado and ikura, pine nuts, cucumber-wrapped tempura flakes and wasabi mayo. Feeling adventurous? Try your luck with the omakase (Japanese for “in trust”) menu, a selection of 5–10 off-menu courses (prices begin at $85) specially created by the chef; reservations are required. And don’t miss the new 2009 special Ai Treats, a six-course prix-fixe menu offered on a first-come, first- served basis to six parties each Tuesday night for $20.09.

Bull & Bear
(431 N. Wells, 312.527.5973, bullbearbar.com. American. Lunch and dinner daily) This trendy new spot, located in the hip River North area, is a place to see and be seen. The swanky bar and grill hangs flat-screen televisions like artwork along its exposed brick walls, making for a lofty, urban vibe that’s essential to trendy amenities like fully functional, personal beer taps decking out many of the dining tables. And the food follows suit: Classic bar dishes like chicken wings are refined with organic ingredients and artistic plating, while entrées such as crispy honey-miso salmon and double-cut grilled pork chops in an apple-fennel salad offer a fine-dining experience within a casual atmosphere. And let’s not forget the drink menu, which covers all of its bases with a wide variety of beers, wines and playful cocktails like the LUSH (cucumber-infused vodka, lime juice and watermelon), a perfect starter for a sultry summer night.

Graham Elliot
(217 W. Huron, 312.624.9975,
grahamelliot.com. Contemporary American. Dinner Mon.–Sat.) The self-proclaimed first “bistronomic” restaurant in the Windy City, chef Graham Elliot’s eponymous eatery mixes four-star cuisine with hearty doses of humor and accessibility. White tablecloths and tuxedos have no place in this lively dining room, which pumps trendy tunes and seeks to redefine the accepted tradition of “fine dining.” The menu is undeniably inventive, featuring imaginative, kicked-up versions of old favorites: The Reuben is made with corned lamb, Gruyère spaetzle and rutabaga sauerkraut; a foie gras parfait is layered with rice krispies, petite herbs and cranberry compote; and the dessert menu offers a “reconstructed” Snickers bar made with fudge torte, peanut nougat and salted caramel. A similarly creative crop of cocktails includes seemingly out-there ingredients such as Yukon gold potato, cucumber soda, cranberry sauce and dulce de leche, which, in the end, come together to create unexpectedly delicious results.

Hub 51
(51 W. Hubbard, 312.828.0051, hub51chicago.com. Contemporary American. Lunch Mon.–Sat., dinner daily) The sons of Richard Melman, founder and chairman of Lettuce Entertain You, seem to possess the same magical touch as their father for
creating the latest Chicago hotspot. R.J. and Jerrod Melman had a simple concept for this hip, industrial River North restaurant: “Create food we like to eat.” Thus, the menu offers a wide array of cuisine to satisfy every craving and please every palate. For starters, grab a giant platter of pulled chicken nachos. Don’t spoil your dinner, though, because the best is yet to come. Main attractions include filet mignon steak tacos, overnight-braised short ribs and “The Dude,” an 18-oz. aged bone-in rib-eye. This mouthwatering lineup makes it clear that Hub 51 takes its food seriously, but the brothers Melman also have a silly side. The menu is peppered with such edicts as “For thin-crust pizza, go directly to Pizzeria Via Stato,” and House Rules like “No espresso. Starbucks down the block.” It’s obvious they plan on having a good time, and you should count on one, too.

Japonais
(600 W. Chicago, 312.822.9600,
japonaischicago.com. Contemporary Asian. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner daily) Housed in the former Montgomery Ward building in River North, Japonais offers a unique twist on Japanese and European elegance. Here, designer Jeffrey Beers and chefs Gene Kato and Jun Ichikawa have combined forces to create a feast for the eyes and the palate. Enter the Red Room, a nod to old Japan, or enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere in the Green Room, which is sumptuously adorned with lofty floral arrangements. The menu reflects such meticulously decorated spaces with its contemporary flair. Try the “rock,” where you can cook your own marinated New York strip over a hot stone. If you’re looking for something more traditional, try the spicy mono roll made with octopus; classic tuna tartar with sweet unagi sauce should also do the trick. And for the quintessential summer dining experience, ask to be seated on the river walk café, a most suitable backdrop for digging into chef Kato’s seasonal, green-market specialties.


Restaurants Page 2>>